Review: Intimate Apparel (Donmar Warehouse)

Review by Daz Gale

⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️

Following acclaimed productions of Sweat and Clyde’s, writer Lynn Nottage and director Lynette Linton reunite once again to bring another bit of theatre magic to the Donmar Warehouse. This time it’s for a play close to Nottage’s heart in a new production of one of her most acclaimed plays, Intimate Apparel. Adding to their winning formula by bringing back the star of Blues For An Alabama Sky, would this be another success for them?

Inspired by looking into the story of Nottage’s great-grandmother, Intimate Apparel is set in 1905 and follows the life of Esther, who sews exquisite lingerie for women from different walks of life and dreams of opening her own beauty salon. There’s one thing missing in her life, though - love. That looks set to change when she begins receiving letters from a stranger - as the pair grow closer and it looks like her lonely days are behind her, would it be everything she hoped it would be, and has she even made the right choice?

It might seem obvious to describe Intimate Apparel as intimate, but that’s exactly what it is. Given the origins of the story, it is no wonder that Nottage’s writing is tender and has a personal touch to it. At times, the writing proves gentle, allowing the story to play out and grow naturally, without any hint of forcing the narrative. As we learn more about seamstress Esther, Nottage weaves a rich tapestry that creates an incredibly fleshed out main character, it feels impossible not to fall in love with. The skill in Nottage's writing is consistent through her plays, but of all her works I’ve seen before, I dare say I’ve never seen any quite as intricate and thrilling as this.

It is the choice to tell the story solely through Esther’s eyes that makes Intimate Apparel so captivating. This is her story, and what a story it is. Her talent, independence, and strength battle with an inherent loneliness that threatens to derail her entire life. While the courtship between her and her eventual partner, George Armstrong, dominates the story, it is the hints of other possible suitors that elevate Intimate Apparel to jaw-dropping territory. Toeing the line of forbidden love in that era, these relationships are never explicitly stated in a less-is-more approach that speaks volumes for the immense skill in Nottage’s writing and ability to plant an idea in the audience’s heads without needing to hammer it in.

There is a beautiful partnership between Nottage and director Lynette Linton, with a clear understanding and a style that complements each other. I have seen that magic before in multiple other shows of theirs, but never on a scale such as this. The personal touch Nottage exhibits in her writing is accentuated in Linton’s beautiful direction, bringing out every nuance in the story with no stone left unturned. This results in a story full of riches that effortlessly connects. As Act One builds the world, Act Two tears it down with one pivotal sequence so intense, I may have forgotten to breathe during it. This is Lynette Linton at her very best - a remarkable director, for me, this is the pinnacle of her direction so far.

Alex Berry’s design takes what feels like a fairly nondescript setting and inserts various props into it so it can move from Esther’s room to other locations effortlessly. Scatterings of fabrics around the stage tie in to both her talents as a seamstress and those of Mr Marks’ store, where her heart may truly lie. The stage bursts to life with beautiful lighting from Jai Morjaria, and a sensational use of video design from Gino Ricardo Green. Every time one of George’s letters is read out, the way this is portrayed on stage, slightly different each time, is a work of genius. As these letters are revisited near the show’s climax, it is one of the most innovative and effective uses of video design I have witnessed in the theatre.

Having worked with both Nottage and Linton in 2023’s Blues For An Alabama Sky, Samira Wiley returns to the London stage, leading Intimate Apparel as Esther. Wiley is a performer who has thrilled me on stage and screen in the past, but I have never seen her quite like this before. To call her characterisation of Esther believable would be an understatement - Wiley, for all intents and purposes, became Esther, truly blurring the lines between acting and reality, as a truly great performance should do, but few ever manage quite on this scale. I became completely enraptured with every move, every word, and every choice Wiley made.

Beautifully getting the balance of a character who fades into the background when it comes to other people’s stories while dominating the stage herself, Wiley delivered what is one of the single greatest performances I have seen this year, and could see her get herself some award nominations, if there’s any justice. My heart was in my mouth in Act Two in a particularly emotive scene, which may have proved difficult to watch if I was able to take my eyes off of Wiley’s effortless abilities for even a second. Truly a phenomenal performer, this is Samira Wiley at her very best and needs to be seen to be believed.

Kadiff Kirwan plays two different versions of George, showcasing his versatility and strengths as an actor. There is the fantasy version and the real man we later meet. Though the characters' choices in the play are questionable, those of the actor are always faultless. Alex Waldmann is a standout in a sweet portrayal of Mr Marks, bringing something different to the stage whenever his character appeared. Though having the least stage time, Nicola Hughes gives a strong turn as Mrs Dickson, with Claudia Jolly equally thrilling as Mrs Van Buren. The cast is completed by Faith Omele in another standout role as Mayme - the dynamic her character has with Esther is replicated with Omele’s chemistry with Wiley, creating a relationship I longed to see more of.

Though it is initially a quiet and unassuming story, there is a real charm to Intimate Apparel and its quest for love, speaking to the very basics of humanity. Lynn Nottage has delivered a masterclass in storytelling, with characters and situations that feel so real, you fall in love with them as audience members. As skillful as her writing is, Lynette Linton has elevated this to bring it to a whole new level, while Samira Wiley’s interpretation of the character is simply astonishing. The result is a finely woven play, beautifully stitched together to create theatrical perfection in what has to be one of the greatest plays of the year.

Intimate Apparel plays at Donmar Warehouse until 9th August. Tickets from https://www.donmarwarehouse.com/whats-on/34/by-lynn-nottage/intimate-apparel

Photos by Helen Murray